Moton is a Dutch company that makes high end shocks. They assume you are smart enough to not require assembly instructions. Since you're reading this you probably find clear instructions helpful. At least they provide adjusting procedure instructions.

There is spring droop (especially in the rear as pictured) when jacking up the car. Eibach helper springs and spacers will fix this problem but introduce another: the lips of the bottom perch and spring spacer total 0.5", while the compressed helper spring is 0.4". In order to keep the perch from mashing the spacer I shaved 0.1" from one side of the spacer.

In addition to failing to provide instructions, Moton also doesn't make (much less sell) a special lock ring wrench to fit their Club Sport line of shocks. Pictured here are a set I fabricated using 7/32" hex wrenches and oak. I used a Dremel to round the end of the hex wrench and a combination of wire and Gorilla Glue to secure it to the oak handles. They look crude but work well.

The front shock bottom bracket is thicker than stock. This means the OEM bolt is too short and should not be used. I like www.boltdepot.com because they don't have minimum order quantities. You will need two 12mm x 1.5 bolts 90mm long, two nuts and four washers. If you can find flange bolts and nuts then you don't need the washers. All hardware must be grade 10.9 or 12.9 and ideally zinc coated to resist corrosion.

Step 1: Do this for both front and rear shocks. Start by threading the black lock ring all the way down the shock's body. Note the lock ring has a raised step which should be facing up towards the spring. Next goes the orange lock ring followed by your spring(s) of choice. I used Eibach 8" 700lb springs in front and 7" 400lb springs in rear. Both springs have a 2.5" ID.

Note: If you are using helper springs, thread the front shock's orange lock ring 4" below the top of the shock body to approximate OEM ride height. For the rear shocks the black lock ring should be at the very bottom of the threads. If you are not using helper springs, raise the lock rings by half an inch.

Step 2: For the front shocks, after the spring is the spring hat followed by a metal bushing. Note the bushing's orientation. The upper strut mount goes on next, followed by another metal bushing and two lock nuts to hold everything together.

Step 5: Use zip ties to secure the reservoirs in place.

Note: No photo yet, but will come shortly.

Step 6: Making sure there is enough slack in the line throughout the shock's range of travel, zip tie the line to prevent it from rubbing on anything.

Note: I placed the banjo bolt facing out in order to clear my oversized tie rods. Regardless of how you orient the shock, make sure the line doesn't rub against the tire at full wheel lock.

Note: There is a bit of slop where the white plastic spring perch fits over the shock tower. That slop can cause "thunking" sounds as you drive over bumps which may be distracting. I used a piece of 0.060" thick black ABS sheet plastic about 0.4" wide and 11" long as a shim. This provides a snug fit and eliminates that play between the parts. I also trimmed 0.3" from the bottom lip; this part sits at an angle and can rub against the shock body if it isn't shortened.

Step 8: Before attaching the rear coilovers, use a 2" bimetal hole saw to drill an access port (circled in red) so you can adjust the rebound. Follow up with a file or Dremel sanding disk to smooth the edges. Be sure to wear eye protection since metal flakes will fly everywhere in the enclosed space.

Note: Some coilovers like JIC Magic have an adjustment cable you can thread through the OEM hole circled in green if you don't want to muck about with drilling into your car.

Step 9: For the rear remote reservoirs, start inside the trunk. Remove the side trunk lining if you haven't already done so. Use needle nose pliers to compress and push the retaining tabs circled in red to release them.

Note: This photo shows the remote reservoir line already threaded through this vent, in case you were wondering what the black hose going through it was. I cut the vent inside the green circle to place the hose.

Step 10: Holding the vent in the middle, push it in until the retaining tabs clear, rotate it 90 degrees and pull it out of the trunk. This photo shows the part rotated and halfway out.

Step 11: Disconnect the three light bulbs circled in red.

Step 12: Use a deep 10mm socket to remove the two nuts circled in green.

Note: You can leave the taillight dangling, but if you prefer to remove it entirely you will need to unfasten the connector circled in blue that is covered in foam.

Step 13: Pull the taillight out.

Step 14: With the taillight out of the way, use a philips screwdriver to remove the bolt circled in red.

Step 15: Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic fastener circled in green.

Note: The fasteners have already been removed in this photo, which is why you don't see them.

Step 16: Use a philips screwdriver to remove the two bolts circled in green and the plastic fastener circled in green.

Step 17: Pull the tip of the rear bumper away and use a philips screwdriver to remove the bolt circled in blue.

Step 20: Use zip ties to secure the reservoirs in place. Mounting location is a matter of personal preference. I like this location because it allows easy access to both the compression adjustor and gas port with the trunk lining installed.

Step 21: Making sure there is enough slack in the lines throughout the shock's range of travel, zip tie the line to prevent it from rubbing on anything. I drilled a hole in the wheel well liner (circled in red) to attach the zip tie. That seems to keep the line away from the exhaust.