Step 1: All photos show the left front brake. Use a 17mm socket to remove these two caliper bolts. Work the brake caliper free of the rotor. This may take some wriggling if there is a lip on the rotor. Rest the caliper on something so it doesn't strain the brake line. When putting them back on use between 58-75 ft./lbs. of torque.

Step 2: If you are changing brake pads, simply remove them while taking note of their sequence and orientation. Assemble the new pads in the same sequence.

Step 3: Use channel-lock pliers to force the front brake piston back into its socket. The rear piston rotates back into its socket. There is a special tool required for this.

Note: This photo is missing and will be replaced the next time I replace my pads.

Step 4: To replace the rotor, remove the two screws holding the brake rotor in place. They may be frozen so take care not to strip the head.

Step 5: The rotor is likely frozen to the hub and will require considerable banging on the backside before they come free. Use a piece of scrap wood over the face of the rotor to protect it from the hammer's impact. This can take a while so don't give up.

Note: This photo is missing and will be replaced the next time I replace my pads.

Step 6: Once the rotor is (finally!) off, use a wire wheel to remove any rust or scale from the hub. This will ensure the new rotor seats perfectly without any runout. I like to use a dremel for this because the smaller tool allows me to reach all the tight spots.

Step 7: This is optional but I highly recommend it. Sparingly apply some anti-seize lubricant to the face of the hub and threads of the rotor retaining screws. This will make removal of these parts the next time around much easier. Be careful not to get anti-seize on the lug nut threads themselves. That is a bad thing.

Step 8: Reassemble the parts in reverse order. You're done!

Note: This photo is missing and will be replaced the next time I replace my rotors.